SteamHammer's models
- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
Nice work SteamHammer. I can see some easy ways to improve if you don't mind me saying. Looking at your Beowa it seems that you have only put a metallic base coat on the axe. It needs more interest as it is a large area of flat colour at the moment.
How long have you been painting?
How long have you been painting?
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Re: SteamHammer's models
Looking again I would say that the best piece of advice I could give you (and anyone else) is to thin your paint. At least 50/50 with water. Extenders and mediums I'll not mention just yet!
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- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
Thanks. Any advice or links to tutorials on working with metals without doing NMM?
I was painting GW stuff a couple of decades ago but then took a very long hiatus and only started up again two years ago with Malifaux. So advice is always welcome.
I was painting GW stuff a couple of decades ago but then took a very long hiatus and only started up again two years ago with Malifaux. So advice is always welcome.
Re: SteamHammer's models
I'm sure everyone will be happy to help on here. Have a look at my early Troll WIP. I think I wrote something about metal on there.
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- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
Do you thin the metallic paints too?
Re: SteamHammer's models
I always thin my paints, regardless of the shade. Colors that are more opaque (blues, metallics, some reds) get 3 parts paint to 1 part water, while colors that tend to be thinner (yellows, whites) get 4 or 5 parts paint to one part water.
I was taught to mix the paint to be about the consistency of milk. Stick a toothpick in a few drops of milk and swirl it around - that's about where you want the mixture to be. It's thicker than water, but thinner than the paint just out of the pot.
I was taught to mix the paint to be about the consistency of milk. Stick a toothpick in a few drops of milk and swirl it around - that's about where you want the mixture to be. It's thicker than water, but thinner than the paint just out of the pot.
Re: SteamHammer's models
SteamHammer wrote:Do you thin the metallic paints too?
Depending on the finish I want I'll use different thinning agents for my metallics.
Water is always a good standby and won't change the paint much.
If you want the metallic to be slightly less shiny, then using something like Vallejo Model Colour Thinner is a good choice.
It'll flatten the metal colour a little (because it is a somewhat flat transparent medium), which makes colours like that ideal for base layer metallics.
If you really want to get your shiny stuff on, I prefer to use Tamiya X-20A thinner.
It's mainly Isopropyl Alcohol and Butanol combined with a light surfacant and a few other things. But the effect it has on metallics is pretty spectacular, it keeps the flakes in suspension better than water or the Vallejo thinner does, resulting in a really smooth, shiny metal surface. The downside is that it reduces your working time with the paint quite a bit as all those volatile alcohols evaporate rather quickly compared to the other 2 options. It looks great though if you get it right.
War Beckons, and I Answer
Re: SteamHammer's models
Weren't you supposed to be on holiday at the moment?
Re: SteamHammer's models
Rick_Boer wrote:Weren't you supposed to be on holiday at the moment?
I am, I'm typing this from the lounge area of a massive tavern/hotel in south-east Canada. About 9000 kilometres from home.
Resting up a bit, because the flight here by water-plane was more than a little rough, pretty bad turbulence because of the wind.
Relaxing means reading up on the stuff I like on the net, so I was just catching up to all the stuff that's recently been posted.
Still disliking this US style internet though, it's so damn slow. Not even close to the 60 Mbit I have at home, but I'll manage.
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- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
Thanks for the tips, especially when on holiday.
Re: SteamHammer's models
SteamHammer wrote:Thanks for the tips, especially when on holiday.
No problem Steamhammer, now i have time to post stuff.
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- JLLongshore
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Wed Mar 13, 2013 10:15 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
You can listen to all them, but I think they are wonderful as is!
- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
SteamHammer wrote:Thanks. My attempts at stippling are so far failing. Just looks blotchy rather than the fine detail Andy S gets on his metal. More practice is needed. One more finished off:
That is one serious brass bull. Looking good, can't see the stippling all that well, but my tablet doesn't have a large screen. Will need to remember to look again once I'm back home.
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- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:12 pm
Re: SteamHammer's models
Great paint jobs mate I just recently bought myself the talos miniature. How did you go about painting him? Really like how he turned out cheers
- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
Just the standard bearer to go.
As for the Talos painting I roughly followed the first half of this tutorial http://www.tinyworlds.co.uk/blog/painting-aged-patina-bronze/ but stopped before the "Making it Shine" part as I didn't want it too shiny.
- SteamHammer
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:48 am
- JLLongshore
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Wed Mar 13, 2013 10:15 am
Re: SteamHammer's models
very cool, thanks for sharing!
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